Kōyō season · the grand tour

Autumn in Japan

A two-week late-autumn route built around peak kōyō: four nights in Higashiyama Kyoto at Six Senses, two in the northern hills at Roku Kyoto, a night on the floating sandbar of Amanohashidate, a snow-crab night in the onsen town of Kinosaki, then ginkgo-gold Tokyo — four nights at Shinagawa, two in Shinjuku — woven through Michelin counters, temple foliage, Kabuki, Ghibli, and Kamakura's coast.

15 nightsLate November – mid DecemberJapan
KyotoHigashiyama · 4nKyotoTakagamine · 2nAmanohashidate1nKinosakiOnsen · 1nTokyoShinagawa · 4nTokyoShinjuku · 2n

The route, day by day

Stop 1

Six Senses Kyoto — Higashiyama

4 nights

Arrival → Tokyo → Kyoto

THE LONG ARRIVAL
  1. Morning
  2. ~5:15p
  3. ~6:45p
  4. ~10:00p

If your inbound flight lands too late to make the bullet train, an airport-area hotel for the first night in Tokyo (then on to Kyoto in the morning) takes the pressure off — but most afternoon arrivals can reach Kyoto the same evening.

Osaka day trip — eat your way through

HILLS → BAY → NEON
  1. ~6:15a
  2. ~6:30a
  3. 8:00a
  4. ~9:20a
  5. 12:00p
  6. 1:15p
  7. 3:45p
  8. 6:00p
  9. ~9:45p

The 6:15a start lands well with jet lag — eastbound from the US you'll likely wake early anyway. Okonomiyaki replaces a Michelin lunch, freeing Osaka from its old Wednesday-only constraint.

Higashiyama walk + the Ghibli show

HYŌTEI · THE FOOTHILLS · OKAZAKI
  1. ~6:40a
  2. ~7:45a
  3. 8:00a
  4. 9:10a
  5. 10:30a
  6. 11:30a
  7. 1:00p
  8. 2:00p
  9. 4:00p
  10. ~5:30p
  11. ~8:00p

A full, glorious day in the Higashiyama foothills — Hyōtei bookends it, with a riverside set lunch at Tan between. Eikan-dō twice: the maples by day on the walk, then the illumination after dinner.

Southern Higashiyama + Kabuki

BY THE HOTEL → GION
  1. ~7:00a
  2. 8:30a
  3. Late AM
  4. Midday
  5. Early PM
  6. 4:20p
  7. ~8:45p

Tōfuku-ji mobs fast — be at the gate near opening. Kabuki takes the evening, so save the hotel's Sekki kaiseki for another Kyoto night.

Stop 2

Roku Kyoto, LXR — Takagamine

2 nights

North to the mountains

TRANSFER + NW KYOTO TEMPLES
  1. ~7:45a
  2. ~9:30a
  3. ~10:30a
  4. ~11:30a
  5. ~12:45p
  6. ~2:00p
  7. ~3:45p
  8. 6:00p
  9. ~8:30p

All five sights sit in the same northwest pocket within ~15 min of Roku, so the only real travel is the morning taxi over. Kōetsu-ji is the one to drop if you'd rather slow the pace.

Rurikō-in & the Ichijōji temples

VIA EIZAN → NORTHEAST FOOTHILLS
  1. ~8:00a
  2. 10:00a
  3. ~11:30a
  4. ~12:45p
  5. ~1:45p
  6. ~3:00p
  7. ~5:00p

Rurikō-in uses timed-entry tickets sold at booths outside Yase on busy days — arrive early. The Ichijōji-area temples sit within a 10–15 min walk or short taxi of each other.

Stop 3

Amanohashidate

1 night

To the Sea of Japan coast

THE FLOATING SANDBAR
  1. ~8:30a
  2. ~9:30a
  3. ~1:30p
  4. ~3:30p
  5. ~6:00p

To book: a bayside onsen ryokan in Miyazu/Amanohashidate (Genmyoan or Monjusou for the views) — reserve the Matsuba snow-crab kaiseki plan.

Stop 4

Kinosaki Onsen

1 night

To Kinosaki Onsen

DOWN THE SEA OF JAPAN COAST
  1. ~10:00a
  2. ~12:00p
  3. ~1:00p
  4. ~3:30p
  5. Dusk
  6. ~6:30p

The quintessential onsen-town night — willow-lined canals, seven historic bathhouses you hop between in yukata and geta, and prime Matsuba crab. Kinosaki sits far west, so the run to Tokyo tomorrow is long.

Stop 5

Tokyo · Shinagawa

4 nights

Arrive Tokyo → Roppongi

KINOSAKI · SHINAGAWA · ROPPONGI
  1. ~9:30a
  2. ~3:00p
  3. ~4:00p
  4. ~4:45p
  5. ~5:30p
  6. ~6:30p
  7. ~8:00p
  8. ~9:15p

A long travel day: Kinosaki to Tokyo is ~5.5 hr, so the day is evening-weighted. Roppongi tonight because Tue is the one day Mori Art Museum closes early — this Monday's late open is the window.

East-side museums

TSUKIJI → RYŌGOKU → UENO
  1. ~7:30a
  2. ~8:30a
  3. 9:00a
  4. ~11:15a
  5. ~1:00p
  6. ~2:30p
  7. 6:00p
  8. ~8:30p

A museum-heavy morning — the disaster center and Edo-Tokyo back to back, so right-size each. The lit Rikugi-en garden caps the evening; Nature & Science is open Tuesdays (closed Mondays).

Kamakura + Enoshima

TEMPLES → COAST → ISLAND
  1. ~8:00a
  2. ~9:00a
  3. ~9:55a
  4. ~11:00a
  5. ~12:30p
  6. ~2:00p
  7. ~2:45p
  8. ~3:30p
  9. ~4:10p
  10. 5:00p
  11. ~6:30p

A full day — Enoshima caps it with the sunset and the 'Jewel of Shōnan' illumination (December is prime for both clear Mt. Fuji and the lights). Aim to be on the Enoden by ~3:15p for golden hour.

Ghibli & old Tokyo

WEST TOKYO · KOGANEI → MITAKA
  1. ~8:00a
  2. 9:30a
  3. 12:00p
  4. 1:00p
  5. ~3:45p
  6. ~4:45p
  7. 5:30p
  8. ~7:50p
  9. ~8:45p

A relaxed western arc through Koganei → Kichijoji/Mitaka, all of a piece thematically. Edo-Tokyo closes Mondays; Ghibli, Shiro-Hige's and Corn Barley all close Tuesdays — Thursday clears them all.

Stop 6

Tokyo · Shinjuku

2 nights

Shinjuku → Shibuya

WEST-SIDE FINALE
  1. ~8:15a
  2. 9:00a
  3. ~10:45a
  4. ~12:30p
  5. Afternoon
  6. ~7:00p
  7. ~9:30p

Shinjuku Gyoen is closed Mondays but open Fridays — perfect. The route flows west to east: Gyoen → Gaien ginkgo → Omotesando → Shibuya, then dinner-and-jazz at Blue Note before the hotel switch.

Ginza & Marunouchi

HAMARIKYŪ → GINZA → TOKYO STATION
  1. ~9:00a
  2. ~10:45a
  3. 12:00p
  4. 2:30p
  5. ~5:00p
  6. ~7:00p
  7. 9:00p

A Ginza and Marunouchi finale — matcha at Hamarikyū on the bay, a soufflé-pancake brunch, a long shopping rhythm broken by a late 2:30 lunch, the Marunouchi winter illumination, and the farewell omakase, with the Tochō night view to cap it.

Departure — the journey home

LAST MORNING · FLY HOME
  1. Optional 7:00a
  2. 10:00a
  3. ~11:45a
  4. Afternoon

Check whether your return flies from Narita or Haneda — Narita is much farther out, so budget ~1.5–2 hr from Shinjuku and leave by late morning. Confirm your onward connections home when you book.

One honest note: This is a real, fully-timed route built around peak foliage — but autumn colour shifts a week either way each year, so check kōyō forecasts close to departure and keep a day flexible. The Michelin counters (Sushi Harasho, Hyōtei, the farewell omakase), Kabuki Kaomise, and the Ghibli Museum all need booking weeks to months ahead; the crab kaiseki and ryokan plans should be reserved when you book the rooms.

The cities in this trip