Autumn in Japan

1. MorningFly to Tokyo

   The long-haul flight in — most travelers arrive at Haneda (HND) or Narita (NRT). Aim for a flight that lands by late afternoon so you can reach Kyoto the same night.

2. ~5:15pLand in Tokyo

   Immigration and customs — budget about an hour.

3. ~6:45pTrain to Shinagawa, then Nozomi Shinkansen to Kyoto

   From Haneda, ~15 min to Shinagawa, then ~2 hr 15 min on the Tōkaidō bullet train. The last Nozomi to Kyoto leaves well after 9pm, so there's room even if customs runs slow.

4. ~10:00pArrive Kyoto Station → Six Senses

   ~10 min by taxi or hotel car (worth pre-arranging after the haul). A low-key first night — a drink at Nine Tails bar or a konbini bowl, then sleep.

If your inbound flight lands too late to make the bullet train, an airport-area hotel for the first night in Tokyo (then on to Kyoto in the morning) takes the pressure off — but most afternoon arrivals can reach Kyoto the same evening.

1. ~6:15aLeave Six Senses → Senri-Chūō

   Train toward Osaka, then bus or taxi up into the hills to Katsuō-ji for the 8:00 opening. An early start that lands well with eastbound jet lag.

2. ~6:30aKonbini breakfast at the station

   Onigiri, an egg sando and a hot coffee while you wait for the Osaka-bound train.

3. 8:00aKatsuō-ji

   Open at 8 — beat the crowds at the 'winning daruma' temple: thousands of red daruma dolls and vivid autumn color. ~1 hr.

4. ~9:20aMinoh Park & Minoo Falls

   An Uber over to Minoh, then the maple-lined river walk up to the 33 m falls and back, with the momiji-tempura snack.

5. 12:00pOkonomiyaki lunch in Umeda

   Savory Osaka-style pancakes at a classic griddle counter (e.g. Kiji, in the Shin-Umeda food alley).

6. 1:15pOsaka Aquarium Kaiyukan

   The whale-shark tank on Tempozan bay · ~2 hr.

7. 3:45pShinsekai & Tsūtenkaku

   Retro neon under the lit tower; a kushikatsu snack at Daruma.

8. 6:00pDinner at Sushi Harasho ⭐⭐Book ahead

   An intimate two-Michelin-star edomae omakase counter in Tennoji — beautifully crafted nigiri (that famous tamago), warm hospitality, a serious sake list. Closes 8:30pm, so an early seating — book well ahead (hard to reserve, and it recently moved, so confirm the address).

9. ~9:45pTrain back to Six Senses

   Tennoji → Kyoto, then a short taxi — a long, delicious day done.

The 6:15a start lands well with jet lag — eastbound from the US you'll likely wake early anyway. Okonomiyaki replaces a Michelin lunch, freeing Osaka from its old Wednesday-only constraint.

1. ~6:40aSunrise walk of the Philosopher's Path

   Uber to the Ginkaku-ji end while the city's still dark, then the canal path north→south, empty and silent under the maples at first light — the loveliest hour to have it to yourself.

2. ~7:45aKeage Incline

   The disused rail incline lined with trees at the south end — a short, atmospheric stop.

3. 8:00aHyōtei breakfast (the annex)Book ahead

   Winter uzuragayu — quail-egg rice porridge — plus the legendary Hyōtei egg at the 450-year-old three-star's casual sister, by Nanzen-ji. Book ahead.

4. 9:10aGinkaku-ji

   The Silver Pavilion and its moss-and-sand garden · ~45 min.

5. 10:30aEikan-dō by day

   'Eikandō of the maples' — the standout foliage temple, glorious by day · ~1 hr. Reached back down the Philosopher's Path.

6. 11:30aNanzen-ji + aqueduct

   The grand Zen complex and the brick Suirokaku aqueduct · ~45 min.

7. 1:00pLunch at Tan 丹

   A Michelin Bib Gourmand — a serene riverside set lunch by the Shirakawa, Kyoto cooking built on Tango Peninsula produce (their own rice). A fitting taste of Tango before Amanohashidate later.

8. 2:00pThe Zen & Studio Ghibli Exhibition — KYOCERA Museum of Art

   In Okazaki — an immersive reading of Zen through Ghibli, built around The Boy and the Heron · ~2 hr.

9. 4:00pMurin-an Garden 無鄰菴

   The Meiji statesman's villa garden — meadow and stream with Higashiyama borrowed scenery, matcha by the shoji · ~45 min.

10. ~5:30pHyōtei dinner ⭐⭐⭐ (the main room)Book ahead

    Kaiseki in the Nanzen-ji grove — the bookend to the morning's porridge. An early seating leaves you free for the light-up next door.

11. ~8:00pEikan-dō night illumination

    Reflecting pond and lit maples, minutes from Hyōtei — last entry 8:30pm, so head over as dinner wraps.

A full, glorious day in the Higashiyama foothills — Hyōtei bookends it, with a riverside set lunch at Tan between. Eikan-dō twice: the maples by day on the walk, then the illumination after dinner.

1. ~7:00aBreakfast at Sekki (Six Senses)

   A seasonal breakfast at the hotel restaurant before the early start south.

2. 8:30aTōfuku-ji — Tsūtenkyō bridge

   Kyoto's single greatest maple spectacle: a valley of fire from the bridge. It mobs fast, so be there at opening.

3. Late AMSennyū-ji & Kōmyō-in (optional)

   A quiet imperial temple complex minutes from Tōfuku-ji — Kōmyō-in's moss-and-maple garden is a hidden gem.

4. MiddaySanjūsangen-dō & Kyoto National Museum

   Both directly across from the hotel — 1,001 carved Kannon statues, and the museum (open Wednesdays).

5. Early PMTea ceremony

   A formal matcha service in a Higashiyama machiya (e.g. Camellia, near Ninen-zaka) · ~45 min.

6. 4:20pKabuki Kaomise — MinamizaBook ahead

   The year's grandest kabuki run (Dec 1–25), at the Minamiza in Gion. Evening session 16:20–20:25; book 2–3 months ahead.

7. ~8:45pBack at Six Senses

   ~15 min from Gion after the evening session.

Tōfuku-ji mobs fast — be at the gate near opening. Kabuki takes the evening, so save the hotel's Sekki kaiseki for another Kyoto night.

1. ~7:45aBreakfast at Kissa Kishin

   A beloved Western-style breakfast — that melt-in-the-mouth omelette — near Kiyomizu. Opens 7:30 and draws a wait, so go early; then check out.

2. ~9:30aTaxi across to Roku Kyoto

   ~40 min across the city; drop bags by ~10:15a, then explore the northwest cluster on foot and short taxi.

3. ~10:30aGenkōan Temple

   The round 'Window of Enlightenment' and square 'Window of Confusion' framing blazing maples — the iconic kōyō image. ~5 min from Roku · ~45 min.

4. ~11:30aKōetsu-ji

   A serene Takagamine tea temple with the famous sloping 'Kōetsu-gaki' bamboo fence and a maple-lined approach — blissfully quiet · ~45 min.

5. ~12:45pLunch — Izusen at Daitoku-ji

   Shōjin-ryōri (Zen Buddhist vegetarian) served in stacked red lacquer bowls within the temple grounds · ~1 hr.

6. ~2:00pDaitoku-ji & Kōtō-in

   A walled Zen city of sub-temples — Kōtō-in's maple-lined stone approach is one of Kyoto's most photographed autumn scenes · ~1.5 hr.

7. ~3:45pKitano Tenmangū — Momijien

   The seasonal maple garden at Kyoto's plum shrine · ~1 hr. Confirm the Momijien season runs to Dec 3 when booking.

8. 6:00pDinner at OtagiBook ahead

   A 12-course washoku omakase from a warm husband-and-wife counter in Takagamine, ~5 min from Roku — locally sourced, beautifully composed, a lovely sake list. Reserve.

9. ~8:30pBack at Roku · outdoor onsen

   Wind down in the only year-round outdoor natural onsen pool inside Kyoto City.

All five sights sit in the same northwest pocket within ~15 min of Roku, so the only real travel is the morning taxi over. Kōetsu-ji is the one to drop if you'd rather slow the pace.

1. ~8:00aBreakfast at Roku (included)

   The included morning meal before heading out to Eizan.

2. 10:00aRurikō-in Temple

   Be there at opening — the lacquered second-floor table mirrors the blazing maples outside, the iconic Kyoto autumn image. ~1 hr. From Roku: taxi to Demachiyanagi, then the scenic Eizan Main Line to Yase-Hieizanguchi.

3. ~11:30aLunch in Ichijōji

   Eizan back down (~10 min) — the neighborhood is Kyoto's ramen row if you want a hot bowl, plus good cafés · ~1 hr.

4. ~12:45pShisen-dō

   A poet's hermitage — raked white sand, maples, and the gentle clack of a bamboo shishi-odoshi · ~45 min.

5. ~1:45pEnkō-ji

   Jewel-box maple garden with its own floor reflection and a hillside city lookout — small and beloved · ~1 hr.

6. ~3:00pManshu-in

   A refined imperial temple up the hill, beautifully quiet, with a dry-landscape garden and maples · ~1 hr.

7. ~5:00pBack at Roku · long soak + in-resort dinner

   Taxi from Ichijōji (~30–40 min) — your decompress night before the coast.

Rurikō-in uses timed-entry tickets sold at booths outside Yase on busy days — arrive early. The Ichijōji-area temples sit within a 10–15 min walk or short taxi of each other.

1. ~8:30aBreakfast at Roku (included)

   A relaxed breakfast before checking out and catching the train to the coast.

2. ~9:30aLeave Roku → Limited Express Hashidate

   Taxi to Kyoto Station (~30 min), then the Ltd Exp Hashidate (~2 hr) to arrive Amanohashidate ~12:30p. Reserve seats; the Kyoto Tango Railway leg isn't on the national JR Pass.

3. ~1:30pKasamatsu Park viewpoint

   Take the chairlift/cable car up for the famous matanozoki — bend over and look between your legs, and the sandbar 'floats' like a bridge to the sky.

4. ~3:30pWalk or cycle the pine sandbar + Chion-ji

   ~3.6 km of ancient pines across the bay.

5. ~6:00pMatsuba snow-crab kaiseki at the ryokanBook ahead

   Miyazu Bay is prime Tango-crab country at peak season (early Nov–Mar) — the bayside crab feast, with another to come at Kinosaki tomorrow.

To book: a bayside onsen ryokan in Miyazu/Amanohashidate (Genmyoan or Monjusou for the views) — reserve the Matsuba snow-crab kaiseki plan.

1. ~10:00aLeave Amanohashidate after breakfast

   An easy coastal hop — Kyoto Tango Railway to Toyooka (~1 hr), then JR San'in to Kinosaki Onsen (~10 min); ~1.5–2 hr all in. A far gentler travel day than the long eastward hauls.

2. ~12:00pArrive Kinosaki · drop bags, yukata on

   The ryokan lends yukata and geta — wear them all day through town, the proper Kinosaki way.

3. ~1:00pOnsen-hop the seven sotoyu

   Stroll the willow-lined canal between the seven public bathhouses — Ichino-yu, Goshono-yu, Kōno-yu and the rest, clacking along in geta.

4. ~3:30pKinosaki Ropeway → Onsen-ji & Mt. Daishi

   Up for a view over the town and the Sea of Japan; the temple that watches over the springs.

5. DuskLantern-lit canal stroll

   The stone bridges and willows glow at night — the town is at its most magical after dark.

6. ~6:30pRyokan crab kaiseki — Matsuba snow-crabBook ahead

   Kinosaki is the heart of Tajima/Matsuba crab country at peak season — the full crab feast.

The quintessential onsen-town night — willow-lined canals, seven historic bathhouses you hop between in yukata and geta, and prime Matsuba crab. Kinosaki sits far west, so the run to Tokyo tomorrow is long.

1. ~9:30aCheckout → the long ride to Tokyo

   A last morning bath and canal stroll, then Kinosaki → Kyoto (Ltd Exp Kinosaki, ~2.5 hr) → Tōkaidō Shinkansen to Shinagawa (~2.5 hr); ~5.5 hr all in — reserve seats, grab an ekiben.

2. ~3:00pArrive Shinagawa → drop bags

   Into The Strings via the covered Sky Walk from Shinagawa Station.

3. ~4:00pHarry Potter Akasaka (short stop)

   ~20 min from Shinagawa — the free Harry Potter Shop and the Time-Turner-themed Akasaka Station · ~30 min.

4. ~4:45pHie Shrine, Akasaka

   The hidden hillside shrine with a tunnel of red torii up its slope — a quiet, photogenic ~30 min.

5. ~5:30pTokyo Midtown — winter illumination

   The Garden's blue-LED 'Starlight Garden' and the Christmas market, lovely after dark, with shops to browse before dinner.

6. ~6:30pDinner in Roppongi

   ~5 min from Midtown — plenty of options around Roppongi Hills.

7. ~8:00pMori Art Museum + Tokyo City View

   Open to 22:00 Mondays — the show plus the city laid out in light from the 52nd floor.

8. ~9:15pTokyo Tower

   The lit tower a short hop from Roppongi Hills.

A long travel day: Kinosaki to Tokyo is ~5.5 hr, so the day is evening-weighted. Roppongi tonight because Tue is the one day Mori Art Museum closes early — this Monday's late open is the window.

1. ~7:30aTsukiji Outer Market breakfast

   Tamagoyaki, uni, knife shops — quick so you make the 9:00 slot. ~15 min from your Shinagawa hotel.

2. ~8:30aBERTH COFFEE ROASTERY 'Haru'

   Coffee and a light bite at this tiny Sumida roaster (opens 8:00), next to the disaster center.

3. 9:00aCitizen Disaster Prevention Education Center, Sumida

   Free — earthquake simulator, smoke evacuation, typhoon and flood, fire extinguisher, first aid. Book ahead · ~2 hr (open Tue; closed Wed/Thu).

4. ~11:15aEdo-Tokyo Museum, Ryōgoku

   One stop on the Sōbu line — reopened March 2026 after its big renovation: full-scale reconstructions of old Edo and a redesigned main hall · ~1.5 hr.

5. ~1:00pChanko-nabe lunch in Ryōgoku

   Sumo country — the hearty hot pot the wrestlers eat, at a stable-run shop near the Kokugikan · ~1 hr.

6. ~2:30pUeno Park stroll

   Autumn color around Shinobazu Pond and the museum row — ~25 min from Ryōgoku. Then your choice of the National Museum of Nature & Science or the maple garden at Koishikawa Kōrakuen.

7. 6:00pRikugi-en maple illumination

   Open 18:00–20:30, last entry 19:30 · lit maples mirrored in the pond.

8. ~8:30pMichelin dinner (TBD)

   Komagome / Ikebukuro area, or back toward Ginza.

A museum-heavy morning — the disaster center and Edo-Tokyo back to back, so right-size each. The lit Rikugi-en garden caps the evening; Nature & Science is open Tuesdays (closed Mondays).

1. ~8:00aLeave The Strings → Kita-Kamakura

   Direct from Shinagawa (~50 min) after breakfast at the hotel.

2. ~9:00aEngaku-ji

   The great Rinzai Zen temple right at Kita-Kamakura Station — maples at peak late Nov–early Dec · ~45 min.

3. ~9:55aMeigetsu-in

   The 'round-window' temple — its circular Window of Enlightenment frames a glowing maple garden; ~5 min walk from Engaku-ji · ~30 min.

4. ~11:00aHōkoku-ji — the bamboo temple

   East of Kamakura Station — the serene bamboo grove, with a bowl of matcha at Kyūkō-an, the tea house set looking into the bamboo · ~1 hr.

5. ~12:30pLunch at 月と松 (Tsuki to Matsu), ZaimokuzaBook ahead

   A serene, garden-view soba and kaiseki house on the coast side of Kamakura — the karasumi (bottarga) soba is the signature. Course lunch ~¥6,000; reserve ahead, shoes off · ~1.25 hr.

6. ~2:00pThe Great Buddha (Kōtoku-in)

   West to Hase — the great bronze Daibutsu, open to the sky · ~35 min.

7. ~2:45pHase-dera

   Hillside temple with sweeping views over Sagami Bay · ~40 min.

8. ~3:30pEnoden → Kamakurakōkō-Mae

   The famous seaside level crossing — sea, Enoshima, and on a clear day Mt. Fuji behind the tracks (the iconic Slam Dunk shot).

9. ~4:10pEnoshima island & sunset

   Cross the bridge, climb past Enoshima Shrine to the Chigogafuchi rocks for the ~4:30 sunset — winter is the clearest season for Mt. Fuji over the sea.

10. 5:00p'Shōnan no Hōseki' Sea Candle illumination

    Samuel Cocking Garden and the lit Sea Candle tower — one of Kanto's top three illuminations, with Fuji silhouetted behind the lights (weekday to 20:00, last entry 19:30).

11. ~6:30pShirasu dinner on the island

    Enoshima's signature whitebait — raw or rice-bowl — before the ride back (~1.5 hr to The Strings).

A full day — Enoshima caps it with the sunset and the 'Jewel of Shōnan' illumination (December is prime for both clear Mt. Fuji and the lights). Aim to be on the Enoden by ~3:15p for golden hour.

1. ~8:00aForward luggage ahead to your next hotel

   Have the front desk send your suitcases ahead via Yamato takkyūbin so they're waiting at your next hotel — travel the next two days with just an overnight bag.

2. 9:30aEdo-Tokyo Open-Air Architectural Museum, Koganei Park

   Right at opening — relocated historic buildings across a parkland, including the bathhouse that inspired Spirited Away. Miyazaki was a regular here.

3. 12:00pShiro-Hige's Cream Puff Factory, Kichijoji

   The only Ghibli-licensed sweets — Totoro-shaped cream puffs. Take-out only, cash only, and they sell out. ~15 min walk through Inokashira Park to Ghibli.

4. 1:00pGhibli Museum, Inokashira ParkBook ahead

   Book the 1pm entry · ~2–3 hr inside, with lunch at the Straw Hat Café (Café Mugiwara-Bōshi) in the garden wing. Tickets release the 10th of the prior month (10:00 JST) and sell fast.

5. ~3:45pInokashira Park

   A loop of the pond beside the museum — autumn color, the Benzaiten shrine, swan boats · ~45 min.

6. ~4:45pKichijoji wander — Harmonica Yokocho

   The warren of tiny alley bars and stalls by the station, plus the Sun Road arcade · ~1 hr.

7. 5:30pDinner at Corn Barley, Kichijoji

   A wonderfully Ghibli-themed restaurant near the station — movie-inspired course meals and the best Ghibli decor outside the museum itself. Reserve ahead (closed Tue).

8. ~7:50pNTV Big Clock, Shiodome

   Arrive by 7:50 for the 7:57pm show, when Miyazaki's giant copper clock comes alive with moving figures (~3 min).

9. ~8:45pNEWoMan Takanawa · LUFTBAUM

   On the way back, the 28–29F rooftop botanical garden and its lit Tokyo views — a drink before bed, one stop before Shinagawa.

A relaxed western arc through Koganei → Kichijoji/Mitaka, all of a piece thematically. Edo-Tokyo closes Mondays; Ghibli, Shiro-Hige's and Corn Barley all close Tuesdays — Thursday clears them all.

1. ~8:15aGodzilla head, Kabukichō

   Quick photo stop before the garden opens — the giant Godzilla above the Hotel Gracery. Your luggage is already on its way to the next hotel; just a day bag today.

2. 9:00aShinjuku Gyoen National Garden

   Be there at opening — one of Tokyo's best autumn gardens; French, English and Japanese landscapes; foliage peaks early Dec. (Closed Mondays — Friday's perfect.)

3. ~10:45aJingū Gaien ginkgo avenue

   146 ginkgo in a gold tunnel — peaks late Nov–early Dec; Gaienmae is ~15 min from Gyoen. Then stroll on through Omotesando toward Shibuya.

4. ~12:30pLunch at Ukiyo, Shibuya

   A proper sit-down lunch (with a quick pour-over at Acid Coffee Tokyo across the street first).

5. AfternoonShibuya shopping

   Scramble Square, Miyashita Park, depachika and boutiques; the crossing at dusk.

6. ~7:00pBlue Note Tokyo — dinner + jazzBook ahead

   Minami-Aoyama (~10 min from Shibuya) — dinner at the table while you watch the set. First show ~7pm; book ahead, and order food before the lights go down.

7. ~9:30pCheck in at the Hilton (Nishi-Shinjuku)

   ~20 min from Aoyama — your forwarded luggage is waiting.

Shinjuku Gyoen is closed Mondays but open Fridays — perfect. The route flows west to east: Gyoen → Gaien ginkgo → Omotesando → Shibuya, then dinner-and-jazz at Blue Note before the hotel switch.

1. ~9:00aMatcha at the Nakajima teahouse, Hamarikyū

   A bowl of matcha and a wagashi in the teahouse out on the tidal pond, then a loop past the 300-year pine — an easy ~45 min on the bay (garden opens 9:00).

2. ~10:45aA Happy Pancake — Ginza

   The soufflé-pancake brunch; scan the QR for the virtual queue. (A fruity pour-over at X coffee GINZA on the walk over.)

3. 12:00pGinza shopping

   Itoya, the flagships, the depachika halls — work through the district.

4. 2:30pLunch in Ginza

   A proper sit-down lunch mid-afternoon, once the morning crowds thin.

5. ~5:00pTokyo Station — Marunouchi Illumination

   ~10 min from Ginza — champagne-gold lights down Naka-dōri and the floodlit red-brick station facade after dark, with a last browse of the Naka-dōri boutiques and KITTE.

6. ~7:00pFarewell omakase — your last Tokyo nightBook ahead

   The sushi-counter send-off; book weeks ahead — the good ones go fast.

7. 9:00pTokyo Metropolitan Government Building (Tochō)

   The free observation deck for a last city-lights panorama (last entry 21:30) — right by the Hilton, a fitting final view.

A Ginza and Marunouchi finale — matcha at Hamarikyū on the bay, a soufflé-pancake brunch, a long shopping rhythm broken by a late 2:30 lunch, the Marunouchi winter illumination, and the farewell omakase, with the Tochō night view to cap it.

1. Optional 7:00aMEGA Don Quijote, Shibuya

   Open 24 hours, ~10 min away — snacks, souvenirs, the last gifts (tax-free on the upper floor).

2. 10:00aBreakfast at BAM BI COFFEE, Nishi-Shinjuku

   Fluffy seasonal-fruit pancakes and good coffee; opens 10:00 — a relaxed last meal before the airport.

3. ~11:45aHead to the airport

   For Narita, the Narita Express or Airport Limousine bus from Shinjuku (~90 min); Haneda is closer (~45 min). Check which airport your flight leaves from and keep a generous buffer.

4. AfternoonDepart for home

   The long flight back, crossing the date line — most travelers arrive home the same calendar day. A fitting end to two weeks in autumn Japan.

Check whether your return flies from Narita or Haneda — Narita is much farther out, so budget ~1.5–2 hr from Shinjuku and leave by late morning. Confirm your onward connections home when you book.