Beijing

1. ~8:00a●Jianbing breakfast

   Beijing's street-corner breakfast crêpe — a thin mung-bean pancake with egg, crispy wonton, scallion, and chilli paste, folded hot off the griddle.

2. 8:30a◆Tiananmen Square

   The vast ceremonial square at opening — the Monument to the People's Heroes, the Great Hall of the People, and the scale of it all (bring your passport for the security check).

3. 9:30a◆The Forbidden City

   The Ming-and-Qing imperial palace — 900 buildings along the central axis, the throne halls, and the quieter side courtyards and the Clock Gallery. Book timed tickets ahead with passport; allow three hours.

4. ~1:00p●Imperial-style lunch

   Court-cuisine small dishes near the palace, or a bowl of zhajiangmian — Beijing's fried-bean-paste noodles topped with shredded cucumber and radish.

5. ~3:00p◆Jingshan Park

   Climb the hill just north of the palace for the postcard view back over the golden-roofed Forbidden City and the whole imperial axis.

6. 7:00p✦Peking duck at a great houseAnchor table

   The city's defining feast — lacquered, wood-fired Peking duck carved tableside, the crackling skin dipped in sugar, the meat rolled in pancakes with scallion and hoisin. Book a renowned duck house (Siji Minfu or a Da Dong) as the trip's anchor.

The Forbidden City needs an advance timed ticket (and your passport) and a half-day — go at opening. Peking duck is the unmissable Beijing meal; the best houses book out, so reserve early.

1. ~7:30a✦Early drive to Mutianyu

   Beat the day-trippers to the best-restored crowd-free section — about 1.5 hours from the city, through the mountains north.

2. ~9:30a◆Walk the Wall

   The cable car or chairlift up, then walk the ramparts between the watchtowers as the Wall snakes over the green ridges to the horizon — the view that never disappoints.

3. ~12:00p✦Toboggan down & a country lunch

   Ride the toboggan track back down from the Wall, then a farmhouse lunch of rainbow trout and garden vegetables in the valley.

4. ~2:30p◆A quieter stretch or the Ming Tombs

   Linger on a wilder tower, or stop at the Ming Tombs' Sacred Way — the camel-and-elephant statue avenue — on the drive back.

5. ~7:30p●Hotpot dinner back in the city

   Warm up with a Beijing-style copper-pot lamb hotpot — thin mutton swished in clear broth with sesame dipping sauce, the cold-weather classic.

Mutianyu is the sweet spot — beautifully restored, less mobbed than Badaling, with cable car and toboggan. Go early; wear real shoes (the steps are steep and uneven) and bring water.

1. ~7:30a✦Temple of Heaven at dawn

   The circular Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests — and, just as good, the surrounding park where locals do tai chi, dance, sing opera, and play jianzi at sunrise.

2. ~10:30a✦A hutong rickshaw & a courtyard

   Pedal through the grey-brick lanes of old Beijing by rickshaw, with a visit inside a traditional siheyuan courtyard home and a local family's tea.

3. ~12:30p●Hutong lunch

   A tucked-away noodle house or a jian bing and baozi stop — old-Beijing snacks where the neighbourhood actually eats.

4. ~2:30p◆The Lama Temple & Drum Tower

   The Tibetan-Buddhist Yonghegong with its 18-metre sandalwood Buddha, then the Drum and Bell Towers over the rooftops.

5. ~5:00p→Houhai Lakes at golden hour

   The willow-lined lakes and the Nanluoguxiang lane — a stroll, a paddle-boat, and the bars and tea houses as the lanterns come on.

6. ~7:30p●Beijing snacks & a drink

   Skewers and craft beer in a hutong courtyard bar, or a sit-down dinner of Shandong-Beijing home cooking.

The Temple of Heaven park at dawn is the real show — the public life around the temple is the highlight, not just the architecture. The hutongs are vanishing; a courtyard visit is the way to see how the city used to live.