Hong Kong

1. ~8:30a●Cha chaan teng breakfast

   A local diner for the Hong Kong morning: a buttery pineapple bun (no pineapple — it's the crackled top), silky scrambled-egg toast, and a milk tea pulled strong through a cloth sock.

2. ~10:00a✦The Peak Tram & circle walk

   The 1888 funicular up Victoria Peak, then the flat Lugard Road loop for the postcard view down over the skyscrapers and the harbour. Go before the midday haze.

3. 12:30p●Dim sum lunch

   The trolley ritual: har gow (translucent shrimp dumplings), siu mai, char siu bao, and a steamer of cheung fun with sweet soy. Push the cart ladies for what just came out of the kitchen.

4. ~2:30p→Central's layers & Sheung Wan

   The Mid-Levels escalator up through the city, then the dried-seafood and medicine shops of Sheung Wan and the antique lanes of Hollywood Road.

5. ~6:00p✦Star Ferry at dusk

   Ten cents of the best view in Asia — the green-and-white ferry across to Tsim Sha Tsui as the towers light up for the 8pm Symphony of Lights.

6. 8:00p✦Lung King Heen ⭐⭐⭐Anchor table

   The first Chinese restaurant to win three stars — refined Cantonese at the Four Seasons with the harbour filling the windows. The baked abalone puff and the steamed lobster are signatures. Book well ahead; this anchors the trip.

Do the Peak before noon — the haze thickens through the afternoon and the queues build fast. Lung King Heen overlooks the harbour, so request a window when you book.

1. ~9:00a◆Wong Tai Sin Temple

   The city's most atmospheric working temple — clouds of incense and the clatter of kau cim fortune sticks shaken until one falls. Bright, busy, and free.

2. ~10:30a◆Chi Lin Nunnery & Nan Lian Garden

   A serene Tang-dynasty-style wooden complex built without a single nail, set against a koi-pond garden — the calm counterpoint to the streets outside.

3. ~12:30p●Roast goose & wonton noodle

   A Michelin-listed roast-meat shop: crisp-skinned char siu and roast goose over rice, or a bowl of springy wonton noodle in clear prawn broth.

4. ~2:30p✦Mong Kok's themed markets

   Block by block: the Flower Market, the Goldfish Market, the Bird Garden with its songbirds in bamboo cages, and the Ladies' Market for the haggle.

5. ~6:30p●Temple Street Night Market

   Open-air dai pai dong cooking once the stalls light up — typhoon-shelter crab, clams in black-bean sauce, and a cold Tsingtao at a plastic table.

Kowloon is the dense, neon, street-level Hong Kong — keep it all on foot and on the MTR. The night market only comes alive after dark, so save Temple Street for last.

1. ~9:00a✦Ngong Ping cable car, Lantau

   The 25-minute glass-floored cable car over the mountains and sea to the plateau — book the Crystal Cabin and go early before the cloud rolls in.

2. ~10:30a◆Tian Tan Big Buddha

   268 steps up to the great bronze Buddha seated above the Po Lin Monastery — vast, serene, and worth the climb for the mountain panorama.

3. ~12:30p●Monastery vegetarian lunch

   The Po Lin Monastery's famous meat-free meal — mushroom and bamboo-shoot dishes, served simply in the refectory.

4. ~2:30p→Tai O fishing village

   The 'Venice of Hong Kong' — stilt houses over the water, shrimp-paste shops, and a sampan ride out to look for pink dolphins.

5. ~7:30p●Island-side seafood dinner

   Back toward town: a Cantonese seafood house for steamed garoupa with ginger and scallion, salt-and-pepper prawns, and stir-fried gai lan.

Lantau is a full day out — check the cable car runs that day (it closes for maintenance) and have the ferry as backup. Cloud cover sits on the Buddha by afternoon, so go up first thing.