Montreal

1. ~8:30a●A café au lait & a viennoiserie

   Montreal's French side at breakfast — a flaky croissant or a chocolatine at an Old-Montreal café, with a proper café au lait.

2. 9:30a◆Notre-Dame Basilica

   The neo-Gothic masterpiece — a breathtaking deep-blue, star-vaulted interior lit in gold, one of the most beautiful church interiors in North America. Go at opening for the quiet.

3. ~11:00a→Vieux-Montréal's cobbled lanes

   The 17th- and 18th-century old town — Place Jacques-Cartier, the old courthouses, and the stone warehouses along the river, the closest thing to Europe on the continent.

4. ~12:30p●A smoked-meat lunch

   The Montreal institution — a hand-carved smoked-meat sandwich on rye with mustard at Schwartz's, the 1928 deli, with a side of fries and a black-cherry soda.

5. ~2:30p✦The Old Port & a river view

   The revitalised waterfront — a stroll or a cruise on the St. Lawrence, the science centre, and the views back to the old-town skyline.

6. 8:00p✦Toqué! (or Mousso)Anchor table

   Montreal's defining table — Normand Laprise's Toqué!, the temple of Québec terroir cuisine that launched the city's whole farm-to-table movement. The marquee room; book ahead.

Old Montreal is the European heart of the city — Notre-Dame and the cobbled lanes are the can't-miss. Schwartz's smoked meat is a genuine institution; expect a line and order it 'medium.'

1. ~9:00a✦Climb Mont Royal

   Up the parkland mountain the city is named for — the Kondiaronk Belvedere for the skyline-and-river panorama, designed by the man behind Central Park.

2. ~11:00a●A Montreal bagel

   The wood-fired, hand-rolled, honey-water-boiled Montreal bagel — sweeter and denser than New York's — hot from St-Viateur or Fairmount in Mile End, the rivalry that defines the city.

3. ~12:30p→The Plateau & Mile End

   The most charming neighbourhoods — colourful triplexes with twisting outdoor staircases, murals, indie boutiques, and the bohemian-creative soul of the city.

4. ~2:00p●Poutine & a market

   Cheese-curd-and-gravy poutine done well, then the Jean-Talon market — one of North America's great public markets, Québec produce and cheese and maple everything.

5. ~4:30p◇Boulevard Saint-Laurent & Saint-Denis

   The historic 'Main' and Saint-Denis — Québécois designers, vintage, bookshops, and record stores, the city's creative retail spine.

6. ~7:30p✦An apéro & the nightlife

   Montreal's famous joie de vivre after dark — a natural-wine bar on the Plateau, or a terrasse in summer, easing into the city's legendary nightlife.

The Plateau and Mile End are Montreal at its most charming — bagels, murals, and the spiral staircases. The bagel rivalry (St-Viateur vs. Fairmount) is a real local debate; try both and pick a side.

1. ~9:30a◆Montreal Museum of Fine Arts

   The city's great museum — a strong collection across five pavilions, from Old Masters to Québécois and Inuit art, free for the permanent collection.

2. ~11:30a✦The Underground City

   In winter especially — the RÉSO, 33 km of climate-controlled tunnels linking malls, métro, and downtown; a uniquely Montreal answer to the cold.

3. ~1:00p●Lunch in Little Italy or Chinatown

   A plate of fresh pasta in Little Italy by the Jean-Talon market, or dumplings in the compact Chinatown — the city's deep immigrant food cultures.

4. ~3:00p✦A sugar-shack or maple experience (seasonal)

   In late winter/spring, a cabane à sucre for the maple-syrup harvest feast; otherwise a chocolate or cheese tasting of Québec producers.

5. ~6:30p✦A festival or a show

   Montreal is the city of festivals — jazz, comedy (Just for Laughs), fireworks; in summer something's always on. Otherwise a Cirque-style show or live music.

The MFA is free and excellent. Montreal is the festival capital of North America — check what's on; in summer the city is one long celebration, and in spring the sugar shacks are a delicious tradition.