San Francisco

1. ~8:30a●Ferry Building breakfast

   The grand market hall on the Embarcadero — a Blue Bottle coffee, a Tartine pastry, and the morning farmers' market; California's food obsession in one building.

2. ~10:00a✦Cable car over the hills

   Ride the 1873 cable car — the world's last manually operated system — clanging up and over Nob Hill and Russian Hill; hang off the running board like a local.

3. ~11:30a→Fisherman's Wharf & the sea lions

   The working waterfront — the barking sea lions hauled out at Pier 39, and a sourdough bread bowl of clam chowder at Boudin, baking since the Gold Rush.

4. ~2:00p◆The Golden Gate Bridge

   Walk or bike out onto the most beautiful bridge on earth — from Crissy Field or the Marin side at Battery Spencer for the classic shot, fog permitting.

5. 7:30p✦Benu ⭐⭐⭐Anchor table

   Corey Lee's three-star — a singular Korean-and-Chinese-inflected American tasting menu (the faux-shark-fin soup is legendary) in a serene SoMa room. The city's defining table; book weeks ahead.

San Francisco's fog ('Karl') rolls over the bridge most summer afternoons — go in the morning or accept the moody version. Cable cars queue at the turnarounds; board mid-route to skip the wait.

1. ~8:30a✦Alcatraz Island

   The first ferry to the Rock — the cellhouse audio tour, narrated by former guards and inmates, is one of the best in the world. Book well ahead; it sells out days out.

2. ~12:00p●North Beach Italian lunch

   The old Italian quarter — a focaccia from Liguria Bakery (till it sells out), or pasta and a cappuccino in a Columbus Avenue café where the Beats once sat.

3. ~1:30p◇City Lights & the Beat legacy

   City Lights Booksellers — Ferlinghetti's landmark that published Howl — and the Beat-era bars and murals of the surrounding lanes.

4. ~3:00p→Coit Tower & the Filbert Steps

   Up Telegraph Hill to the Coit Tower murals and the bay panorama, then down the flower-lined Filbert Street wooden steps past the wild parrots.

5. ~6:30p●Chinatown dinner

   The oldest Chinatown in North America — dim sum or a Cantonese banquet down a lantern-strung alley, and a stop at the Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory to see them folded by hand.

Alcatraz tickets must be booked days to weeks ahead — it's the one thing to lock in early. North Beach, Coit Tower, and Chinatown form a tidy walking cluster for the rest of the day.

1. ~9:30a◆Golden Gate Park

   The great urban park — the de Young Museum's tower view, the Japanese Tea Garden (the oldest in the US), and the glass Conservatory of Flowers, all in one green sweep larger than Central Park.

2. ~12:00p→Haight-Ashbury

   The cradle of the Summer of Love — Victorian 'Painted Ladies,' vintage shops, record stores, and the famous Haight-and-Ashbury corner.

3. ~1:30p●A Mission burrito

   The city's iconic cheap lunch — an overstuffed foil-wrapped Mission-style burrito from a taquería like La Taquería or El Farolito, eaten on a sunny stoop.

4. ~3:00p✦Mission murals & coffee

   The vivid political murals of Balmy and Clarion Alleys, the Latino heart of the city, and a third-wave coffee or a mission-fig ice cream along Valencia Street.

5. ~6:30p✦A neighborhood cocktail bar

   The Mission and Hayes Valley do craft cocktails as well as anywhere — a seasonal-ingredient drink in a buzzy room before dinner.

The Mission is the city's sunniest, foodiest district — the burrito is a rite of passage, and the murals are world-class street art. The Painted Ladies at Alamo Square are a short detour for the postcard skyline shot.