Seville

1. ~8:30a●Tostada & café in a plaza

   The Andalucían breakfast — toasted bread with crushed tomato, olive oil, and jamón, with a café con leche and fresh orange juice in a sunny square.

2. 9:00a◆Real Alcázar at opening

   The breathtaking royal palace of Moorish and Mudéjar courtyards, tiled halls, and sunken gardens — still a royal residence, and a Game of Thrones location. Book the first entry; it fills fast.

3. ~11:30a◆The Cathedral & the Giralda

   The largest Gothic cathedral in the world, Columbus's tomb, and the climb up the Giralda — a former minaret with ramps instead of stairs — for the rooftop city view.

4. ~1:30p●A tapas crawl in Santa Cruz

   The old Jewish quarter's tiled bars — espinacas con garbanzos (spinach and chickpeas), jamón ibérico, and a chilled fino sherry, standing at the counter, bar to bar.

5. ~4:00p→Barrio Santa Cruz & Plaza de España

   The whitewashed lanes and orange-tree patios of the old quarter, then the half-moon grandeur of the Plaza de España with its tiled provincial alcoves and canal.

6. 9:00p✦Abantal ⭐ (or Cañabota ⭐)Anchor table

   Seville's Michelin-starred modern Andalucían — Abantal's refined tasting of local produce, or Cañabota's superb seafood. The marquee table; book ahead and dine late, as Seville does.

The Alcázar and cathedral are the can't-miss pair — book the Alcázar's first slot to beat the heat and crowds. Andalucía eats and lives late; an evening tapas crawl is the soul of the city.

1. ~9:30a✦Triana ceramic workshops

   Across the river to the old potters' and flamenco quarter — the Centro Cerámica and the tile workshops where Seville's famous azulejos are still hand-painted.

2. ~11:00a✦Triana market & the river

   The covered Mercado de Triana over an old castle's ruins — tapas counters among the produce stalls — and a stroll along the Guadalquivir to the golden Torre del Oro.

3. ~1:30p●A long Triana lunch

   Pescaíto frito — Andalucían fried fish — and grilled prawns at a riverside terrace, with a cold beer or a glass of Barbadillo.

4. ~4:00p◇Flamenco wares & artisan finds

   Triana and the centre for hand-painted fans, a flamenco shawl, ceramics, and Sevillian guitars — the real craft, not the souvenir-stall kind.

5. 9:30p✦A flamenco tablao

   Seville is the birthplace of flamenco — an intimate tablao or peña (La Casa del Flamenco, or a Triana peña) for the raw, foot-stamping real thing, not a dinner show.

Triana is the heartbeat of Sevillian flamenco and ceramics — spend the day across the river. See flamenco in a small tablao or peña, late, where the duende (the soul of it) actually lives.

1. ~9:30a◆Casa de Pilatos or Las Dueñas

   An aristocratic Sevillian palace — Casa de Pilatos's blend of Mudéjar, Gothic, and Renaissance around tiled courtyards, the city's most beautiful private house.

2. ~11:30a✦The Metropol Parasol (Las Setas)

   The vast undulating wooden 'mushrooms' over the old town — a rooftop walkway with a panorama, and Roman ruins in the basement museum.

3. ~1:30p●Tapas at a historic taberna

   El Rinconcillo, the oldest bar in the city (1670) — carrillada (braised pork cheek), salmorejo, and montaditos, the tab still chalked on the wooden counter.

4. ~4:00p✦A rooftop or a horse-carriage

   A rooftop terrace for the cathedral view over a tinto de verano, or a classic horse-drawn carriage through María Luisa Park.

5. ~9:00p●An evening tapas route

   The Sevillian ritual — hop between tabernas in the Alfalfa and Alameda quarters, a different specialty and a different sherry at each, late into the night.

Tapas in Seville is a way of moving through the evening, not a single meal — order one or two and move on. El Rinconcillo is a living piece of history; go for the atmosphere as much as the food.